The German Romantic Rhine Road

POSTED: JANUARY 2012

Nineteenth Century poets, artists and writers captured the charm of the castles along the Rhine River, the ancient stone bridges, century’s old towns and markets in poems and paintings. Today, it is possible to trace a path between Frankfurt and Freiburg and relive this past.

There are direct flights from New York/JFK to Frankfurt. You can explore Frankfurt, a modern banking center with an old town center, either at the beginning or end of your journey. Frankfurt is only about 30 minutes from Wiesbaden. Wiesbaden has been a spa town since Roman times. There are 23 hot springs which have attracted emperors, royalty, the rich and the famous.

Consequently, it is an elegant city consisting of mansions, palaces and many parks. Untouched by World War II, the city remains as a tribute to the architecture of the baroque and neo-classical styles. Dostoevsky is said to have gambled away his wealth at the Wiesbaden Casino and wrote his novel, ”The Gambler”, based upon his experiences. Today, not only is Wiesbaden a cultural center but also remains a spa center and supports renowned health clinics.

Many of the towns along the Rhine River were founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago. Successive cultures built fortification walls and a protected city grew up within. Mainz is one such town. It is across a bridge directly opposite Wiesbaden on the other side of the Rhine. There are medieval houses, a 1,000 year old cathedral and St. Christopher’s Church which stands in ruins as a monument to the devastation of the war. Guttenberg is the famous son of Mainz. He was born here and invented the moveable type printing press in the fifteenth century. Because of this invention, it was possible to produce 148 bibles in 3 years-a distinct advancement from the prior hand written documents. The museum has demonstrations of the operation of the Guttenberg press and copies of the bibles.

Koblenz, at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers, has been a strategic location since Roman times. It was destroyed during World War II but the old town center was rebuilt during the 1960’s. Stolzenfels Castle, high above the city of Koblenz, represents the height of the Romanticism of the Rhine Valley. Friedrich Wilhelm IV built the castle in the nineteenth century upon the ruins of a thirteenth century castle. Perched high above the valley, there are enviable views of the Rhine River and the landscape below. The castle is being painstakingly restored with its wood paneling, wall covering and magnificent stained glass.

Oberwesel is the smallest of the towns but not any less interesting. It is surrounded by an almost completely preserved city wall featuring gates and 28 towers-16 of which still remain. Not only is the town maintained but successive generations have reused the architectural elements from the past. For example, one of the towers of the city wall was purchased in the nineteenth century and today a family still lives there. When a medieval monastery burned down in ancient times, residents used the remaining walls to rebuild housing. Today, residents live with these as structural walls.

At Kulturhaus (Museum) the development of the local cities became very clear. For here, one could see how the flat boats that navigated the Rhine were towed by animals on a tow path. These boats had to pay a transport tax at intervals along the river. This tax enriched the coffers of the lord of the local castle and enabled the formation of the towns below and within the walls. Today, Oberwesel is a wine growing region. It is noted for its extensively cultivated vineyards.

Heidelberg is, perhaps, the most well known of the towns. It is the city with the oldest University in Germany. Heidelberg University dates back to the fourteenth century. You can visit the grand Old Hall or the “student prison” where university students were held for minor infractions up until the twentieth century. You can stay at Hotel Hollaender Hof, the oldest inn in Heidelberg dating from 1588 or drink in historic student pubs. Take the funicular to the ruins of Heidelberg Castle where you get a spectacular view of the old town and stone arched bridge. Be sure to stand on the largest wine barrel said to be able to hold 58,000 liters of wine. Today, Heidelberg is still a thriving educational center that has produced scientists and Nobel Prize winners.

Finally, visit Freiburg, the southernmost city along the Romantic Rhine Road. It is known as “the Capital of the Black Forest”. It has a very large medieval quarter with cobblestone, winding, narrow lanes and half timbered houses. Water flowing downwards from the Black Forest continues to be channeled through small canals called baechle. Except for drinking, the water served many medieval functions. It was used for fire prevention, washing and by tradesmen. The Freiburg Minister is the first Gothic Cathedral east of the Rhine. Be sure to eat at Zum Roten Baeren, the oldest inn in Germany. It dates back to 1311. The 50 landowners over 700 years have been documented . Don’t miss the archeological excavations below the restaurant.

I can’t say enough about the historical significance of the area. It was a privilege and a delight to have traced the path of the ancients. Additionally, I was fortunate to experience it with the glow of the holiday season.

Be sure to experience this magic for yourself. Plan a trip along the Romantic Rhine Road and you will have memories to last a lifetime!

Article written by Patricia Cotti, Eastchester Travel.

Barbara Nichuals is the President of Bayside Travel in Larchmont, Gramatan Travel in Bronxville, Eastchester Travel and Earlfield Travel in Larchmont. Licensed Travel Insurance Agent. For a free consultation call 833-8880 or visit www.luxurytravelservice.com.

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